"Your home is your castle." "There's no place like home." "Home is where the heart is." "Make a house into a home." We have all heard these and countless other adages about the bond between an individual and their dwelling. It doesn't matter if we are describing a mobile home or a mansion, a quaint cottage or sprawling estate. For most people, their home is among their largest investments. Even in a tough economy with rampant foreclosures, a house is also one of the best ways to build wealth over time. Equity comes from paying down debt, as well as increasing the value of the property. And just as a high tide raises all boats (that are in the water), an improving market elevates the vast majority of housing values. Of course, a poorly maintained, leaking boat will struggle to stay above the tides and the same can be said of a poorly maintained house.

This blog will delve into some off the many systems that comprise a house (roofing, ventilation, HVAC, insulation, windows, entry systems, flooring, kitchen and bath). We will discuss what it takes to keep these systems functioning properly, how to maintain them, and what to look for when replacing or upgrading them.

Home improvement is a scary business. Cutting corners to save a few bucks may end up costing you dearly in aggravation, legal entanglements, premature system failure and subsequent replacement. Unpaid subcontractors can place a lien on your home, even if you paid the entire amount of the contract. Does the contractor carry insurance? The Yellow Pages ad may say so, but those claims are never verified. A worker getting injured on the job potentially places the home-owner at risk of liability. "Lifetime" warranties are only as strong as the company that backs them up. With nearly 70% of contractors going under within 7 years, who do you go after if/when something goes wrong? Buried deep in the fine print, it is all-too common to find clauses nullifying warranty protection if installation is not in accordance with manufacturer specifications. How does an unsuspecting homeowner know if the installation is done properly and in accordance with those specifications?

This blog will help to expose the issues that can turn a home improvement project into a nightmare. Knowing how to protect yourself should provide some much needed peace of mind.






Sunday, February 3, 2013

Energy Star reccomended levels of home insulation

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=home_sealing.hm_improvement_insulation_table

Home > Home Improvement > Air Seal and Insulate with ENERGY STAR > Recommended Levels of Insulation

Recommended Levels of Insulation

Insulation level are specified by R-Value. R-Value is a measure of insulation’s ability to resist heat traveling through it. The higher the R-Value the better the thermal performance of the insulation. The table below shows what levels of insulation are cost-effective for different climates and locations in the home.

Recommended insulation levels for retrofitting existing wood-framed buildings

US map showing recommended insulation levels for retrofitting existing wood-framed buildings
Zone Add Insulation to Attic Floor
Uninsulated Attic Existing 3–4 Inches of Insulation
1 R30 to R49 R25 to R30 R13
2 R30 to R60 R25 to R38 R13 to R19
3 R30 to R60 R25 to R38 R19 to R25
4 R38 to R60 R38 R25 to R30
5 to 8 R49 to R60 R38 to R49 R25 to R30
Wall Insulation: Whenever exterior siding is removed on an
Uninsulated wood-frame wall:
  • Drill holes in the sheathing and blow insulation into the empty wall cavity before installing the new siding, and
  • Zones 3–4: Add R5 insulative wall sheathing beneath the new siding
  • Zones 5–8: Add R5 to R6 insulative wall sheathing beneath the new siding.
Insulated wood-frame wall:
  • For Zones 4 to 8: Add R5 insulative sheathing before installing the new siding.

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